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A s a little girl living in Detroit, Michigan, I was intrigued by the ships we saw from Belle Isle. It was, however, many years before I became a freighter passenger and seriously addicted. I've now made 22 voyages, including two around the world.On freighters you become part of a small, self-contained purposeful world. Freighters carry only 12 passengers, because maritime law requires a physician for vessels with more. The small group results in informality and a chance to become acquainted with the crew. After your agent confirms your trip, you get the name of your ship, the port of embarkation, and the approximate length of the trip. Be prepared to be flexible; every detail may change. If you insist on an exact schedule and precise timing, sign up for a cruise ship. On freighter trips, cargo is king; if the bananas are not ripe in Panama, you go to Ecuador. When you board, the pier will be noisy and cluttered. Be brave! A steward will greet you, a brawny able-bodied seaman (AB) will carry your luggage, and your stateroom will be spacious, well-appointed, and welcoming. When you have unpacked your casual clothes, books, and other belongings in the many closets cupboards and drawers, you can prepare to relax. Your room steward will show you a spot from which to watch the loading of cargo. The most spectacular cargo I ever saw was 19 airplanes aboard the Leslie Lykes in Taiwan. Nineteen large crates wrapped in bright orange plastic filled the boat.
Ships' accommodations vary, but the dining saloon is always shared with the captain and other officers. Important notices, such as time-zone change, are posted below the clock. You'll need to pay attention or you may miss breakfast. Fire and boat drills will also be posted. In the case of a drill, take your life jacket to the area listed on your stateroom door. Usually, you'll meet the steward in the lounge while the crew tests the hoses; then the group will go on deck while the lifeboats are checked. American ships require drills once a week. There will be a lounge with a television, a VCR, and a collection of books and puzzles. There is always a pantry with snacks, but don't expect a cruise-style midnight buffet. Make your own sandwich of cheese or cold cuts. One hour before sailing time, a bell rings. Everyone is expected to be aboard. The bridge deck is off limits at sailing time. Later, when the ship is at sea, and if the captain approves, you may be invited into the wheelhouse to see the radar, the navigational charts, and the Global Position Survey, which uses satellites to record latitude and longitude. Most ships sail at night after a long working day. Two tugs get into position to move the ship from the dock. The chief mate is on the bow, the second mate on the stern, and the captain and pilot on the bridge. The gangplank is raised and hawsers are lifted as the ship pulls away. Your next port may be thousands of miles away.
People ask, "What do you do all day?" The meal schedule forms the skeleton: breakfast at 7:30, lunch at 11:30, dinner at 5:30. Before breakfast, coffee is ready. After you've enjoyed a bountiful breakfast, during which your room will be made up, you can pack your deck bag with books, binoculars, and perhaps a knitting or chess set. You may not have time to read if the porpoise are jumping, a ship is passing, or the bosun stops for a chat. Lunch is as substantial a meal as dinner. The sea air will increase your appetite. After dinner, everyone gathers on deck to watch for the green flash or just to admire the view. The green flash occurs the moment the sun disappears over the horizon. If the horizon is clear and the sea calm, look for a quick flash of acid green caused by the refraction of the light and the curvature of the earth. At night, there is usually a movie or group games, but don't miss the night skies, which are magnificent at sea. Mates always know the navigational stars and have almanacs that show the schedules for the planets. Watch a meteor shower or find the Andromeda Galaxy with the ship's powerful binoculars. A PHOTOGRAPHER'S DELIGHT Freighters enter ports unknown to cruise ships. In Brazil, we saw not only Rio de Janeiro but also Paranagua. Upriver in Sumatra, we went to Palembang. We were in Massawa and Asab, Ethiopia, while the Russians were still there. We saw Mogadishu before the war. In Turkey, we enjoyed not only Istanbul but also Izmir, known centuries ago as Smyrna. From there it was a short drive to Ephesus, an outstanding archaeological site. Each ship has a local agent to help with tours. Each time I went to Mombasa, Kenya, there was ample time for a safari. Summers in the Mediterranean meant lovely days in Alexandria, with ventures in Cairo, Luxor, and El Alamein. When we docked in Livorno (Leghorn), we took day-trips to Lucca, Florence, and Pisa. Bon voyage! TRAVEL THE W0RLD BY FREIGHTER Want to travel the ports that most cruise lines don't visit? Here's a detailed list of ship lines that offer a dozen or so accomodations to ports Lake around the globe. A central location for freighter travel information is Freighter World Cruises, 180 South Lake Ave, #335, Pasadena, CA 91101 (626) 449 3106 Fax: (626) 449 9573 Around The World BANK LINE (British Ownership/Isle of Man Registry) offers an Around the World Service monthly from Dunkirk, France, and terminating in Antwerp. Duration about 105-120 days with port time ranging from 1 to 3 days. Fares (which include travel insurance): $12,125 p/p double suites or single cabins. Age limit 80. REEDEREI B. RICKMERS (German Ownership/Registry) will offer service around the world beginning in August, 1998 from either New York, New York or Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; Norfolk, Virginia; either Charleston, South Carolina or Savannah, Georgia; Panama Canal transit. Duration about 88 days. Fares, $8,800 p/p for the Owner's Cabin double occupancy; $11,000 for the Owner's Cabin single occupancy: $8,800 for the single cabin. Age limit 75.
Australia/New Zealand COLUMBUS LINE (German Ownership/Liberian Registry) Ships in the Columbus Line Australia/New Zealand routes offer superior accomodations. Duration about 49 days. Ships carry 8 passengers in 4 double cabins. On-season fares: $5,145 p/p double; $6,125 single occupancy. Off-season fares: $4,655 p/p double; $5,635 single occupancy. Age limit 79. MC SHIPPING (Bermuda Ownership/Bahamas Registry) offers service from Savannah, Georgia with anticipated calls to Houston, Texas. Duration about 66 days. A maximum of 8 passengers can be carried in 2 double cabins and 4 single cabins. Fares: $6,960 p/p double occupancy for a double cabin; $6,470 for a single cabin. Age limit 79. NIEDERELBE SCHIFFAHRTSGESELLSCHAFT BUXTEHUDE (German Ownership/Registry) service from Los Angeles, California calling to Auckland, New Zealand; Melbourne and Sydney. Duration about 46 days. A maximum of 10 passengers can be accommodated in five cabins. Fares: Owner's cabin-$4,600 p/p double or $5,520 single occupancy, 3 double cabins at $4,140 p/p double or $4,968 single occupancy; one double cabin at $3,910 p/p double or $4600 single occupancy. Age limit 79. The Caribbean Duration about 14 days. Two passengers can be carried in two singe cabins, each equipped with TV/radio, and private facilities with shower. There is a swimming pool. Fare: $980 single. Age limit 79. SCHEPERS LINE (German Ownership/Antigua and Barbude Registry) Duration about 10-12 days. Fares: $1,125 p/p for the Owner's Cabin double occupancy; $1,400 for the Owner's Cabin single occupancy; $1,275 for a single cabin. Age limit 79. Europe to the East Africa NIEDERELBE SCHIFFAHRTSGESELLSCHAFT BUXTEHUDE (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 61 days. Roundvoyage fares: $5,761-$6,285p/p double occupancy or $6,439-$7,024 for sole occuppancy for the Owner's Cabin; $5,083-$5,546 p/p double occupancy or $55,761-$6,285 for sole occupancy for a double cabin; $5,422-$5,915 for the single cabin. Age limit 79. Roundtrip from Marseilles (about 43 days) is also available. Europe to Australia/New Zealand NIEDERELBE SCHIFFAHRTSGESELLSCHAFT BUXTEMUDE(German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 81 days. Roundvoyage fares: which are subject to currency fluctuations. Owner's Cabin, double occupancy: $8,100-$8,836 p/p; Owner's Cabin, sole occupancy: $9,900-$10,800; double cabin, double occupancy: $6, 300-$6,873 p/p; double cabin, sole occupancy: $7,650-$8,346 single cabin: $7,200-$7,855. Age limit 79. Segments are available. Europe to the Far East NIEDERELBE SCHIFFAHRTSGSELLSCHAFT BUXTEHUDE (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 63 days. Roundvoyage fares: which are subject to currency fluctuations: Owner's Cabin, double occupancy: $5,775-$6,300 p/p; Owner's Cabin, sole occupancy: $6,300- $6,873; double cabin, double occupancy $4,900-$5,346 p/p; double cabin, sole occupancy: $5,600-$6,109. Age limit 79. The Mediterranean MARTIME REEDEREI (German Ownership/Cyprus Registry) Duration about 50 days. Fares: (50 day duration): $5,500 p/p for the Owner's Cabin or sole occupancy of a double; $5,000 p/p for a double cabin. One-ways are available. Age limit 79 Projex Line below follows this same routing.
MINERAL SHIPPING (German Ownership/Singapore Registry) Fares:$4,950 per person double; $5,400 single based on voyage of 60 days. If voyage is shorter, refund of $82.50 per person (double) and $90 (single) per day for each day less than 70. NIEDERELBE SCHIFFAHRTSGESELLSCHAFT BUXTEHUDE Duration about 44 days. Fares: Which are subject to change-twin bedded suites; $3,911 - $4,267 p/p; double suites: $3,422 - $3,733 p/p; sole occupancy of double suites: $4,146 - $4,533; single cabin and single mini-suites: $3,667 - $4,000. Age limit 79. PROJEX LINE (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 50 days. Fares for Vancouver-Vancouver (60 day duration): $5,900 p/p double, $6,490 single occupancy. Fares for Los Angeles to Los Angeles (50 day duration): $5,000 p/p double, $5,500 single occupancy. One-ways available. Age limit 79. Northern Europe MINERAL SHIPPING ((German Ownership) Fares: Single or double are $1,400 p/p one-way either direction between the U.S. and Europe; $2,750 p/p U.S. to U.S. round trip via Northern Europe; $3,100 p/p U.S. to U.S. round trip via Italy. Bahamas Registry. Age limit 82. Orient/Far East BANK LINE (British Ownership/Isle of Man Registry) Passengers must also be prepared for the vessel to operate on a completely different itinerary, in true tramp mode. Fares: are based on a voyage of 120 days. If shorter, a refund of $95 per person (double or single) and $110 per person (Owner's cabin or sole occupancy of a double) per day for each day less than 120 will be made. If longer, the same per diem rate will be used to calculate the extra fare for days more than 120. Good port times. Age limit 80. EGON OLDENDORFF LINE (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 48 days. Fares: $3,456 p/p for a double cabin; $3,169 for a single cabin. Age limit 79. LEONHARDT & BLUMBERG (German Ownership/Registry) Fares: for the 45 day itinerary: double cabin - $4,500 p/p; sole occupancy of the double cabin - $5,265; single cabin - $4,725. Fares: for the 50 day itinerary: double cabin-$5000 p/p, sole occupancy of the double cabin-$5,850; single cabin-$5,250. Age limit 79. Segments are available. DEUTSCHE SEEREEDEREI ROSTOCK LEONHARDT & BLUMBERG, NIEDERELBE SCHIFFAHRTSGESELLSCHAFT BUXTEHUDE and SCHLUTER LINE (German Ownership) Duration about 91 days. Roundtrip fares: range from $8,594 to $9,375 p/p for double occupancy of an Owner's Cabin; from $9,605 to $10,806 for sole occupancy of an Owner's Cabin; $7,583 to $8,824 p/p for double occupancy of a double cabin; from $8,645 to $10,806 for sole occupancy of a double cabin; and from $7,078 to $8,273 for a single cabin. Age limit 79. NIEDERELBE SCHIFFAHRTSGESELLSCHAFT BUXTEHUDE (German Ownership and Registry) Duration about 62 days. Fares: which are subject to change, range from $5,860-$6,570 p/p for double occupancy of the Owner's Cabin; $5,166-$5,813 p/p for double occupancy of a couble cabin; for sole occupancy of the Owner's $6,027-$6,781 for sole occupancy of a double cabin; $5,166-$5,813 for a single cabin. Age limit 79. Segments are available. REEDEREI F. LAEISZ (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 83 days. Fares: $7,055 p/p double occupancy; $7,885 for single occupancy. Age limit 79. South America DOEHLE LINE (German Ownership/Cyprus Registry) About 41 days roundvoyage Fares: $3,895 for the Owner's Cabin single; $3,445 for the larger single cabin, $3,035 for the standard single cabin. Age limit 79. DOEHLE LINE (German Ownership/ Cyprus Registry) About 44 days roundvoyage. Fares: $4,730 p/p for the Owner's Cabin double occupancy, $4,400 for a double cabin, double occupancy. Age limit 79. LEONHARDT & BLUMBERG (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 48 days. Fares: $4,320 p/p for the Owner's Cabin; $5,280 for sole occupancy of the Owner's Cabin; $4,800 for single cabins. Age limit 79. MARTIME REEDEREI (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 49 days Fares: $5,390 p/p for the Owner's Suite, double occupancy; $5,390 for the single cabin. Age limit 79. REEDEREI BERNHARD SCHULTE (German Ownership/Cyprus Registry) Duration about 45 days. Fares: $4,050 p/p double; $4,500 single. Age limit 79. REEDEREI BERNHARD SCHULTE (German Ownership/Cyprus Registry) Duration about 49 days Fares: $4,410 p/p double $4,900 single. Age limit 79. CHILEAN LINE (Chilean Ownership/Liberian Registry) Duration about 46 days Fares: $4,600 p/p double, $5,060 single. Age limit 82. EGON OLDENDORFF (German Ownership/Liberian Registry) Duration about 28 days. Fares: September to March-$2,955 p/p for the Owner's cabin and single cabins; $2,620 p/p for a double cabin and small single. April to August-$2,530 p/p for the owner's cabin and single cabins; $2,190 p/p for a double cabin and small single. Age limit 79. MARTIME REEDEREI (German Ownership/Registry) Duration about 42 days. The Los Angeles duration is about 34 days. Fares: Vancouver to Vancouver (about 42 days); Cabins 302 and 209 - $4,620 - $4,620 p/p; sole occupancy of Cabins 305 and 202 - $4,620; Cabins 305 an 202 double occupancy - $4,200 p/p. Los Angeles to Los Angeles (about 34 days); Cabins 302 and 209 - $3,740 p/p; sole occupancy of 305 and 202 - $3,740; cabins 305 and 202 double occupancy - $3,400 p/p. Age limit 79. REEDEREI NORD (German Ownership/Cyprus Registry) Duration about 42 days. Los Angeles to Los Angeles duration is about 34 days. Vancouver to Vancouver fares: (about 42 days): twin-bedded double - $3,990 p/p or $4,830 for sole occupancy; single cabin - $3,990; upper/lower berth cabin - $3,360 p/p or $3,990 for sole occupancy. Los Angeles to Los Angeles fares (about 34 days): twin-bedded double - $3,230 p/p or $3,910 for sole occupancy, single cabin - $3,230; upper/lower berth cabin - $2,720 p/p or $3,230 for sole occupancy. Age limit 79. REEDEREI NORD (German Ownership/Cyprus Registry) Duration about 30 days. Roundvoyage Fares: twin-bedded double cabin - $2,850 p/p double occupancy; sole occupancy of a double - $3,450; single - $2,850. Age limit 79. South Pacific COMPAGNIE POLYNESIENNE DE TRANSPORT MARITIME (French Polynesian and U.S. Ownership/French Papeete. Duration 15 nights. Cabins with private facilities range in rate from $3,300 to $3,920 p/p double without private facilities $2,860 p/p double. Mary Louise Mamer has made 22 freighter trips and is the author of Light Airs and Ripples, a book that details her freighter trips around the world. Send $12 to P.O. Box 1994, Tubac, AZ 85646. |
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